Sand devils skittered across the vast desert plateau before me. Beyond, almost as if a mirage, I saw the silhouette of a camel train loping over a low hillock. Amid the dust and heat, the faint outline of Cairo city was just visible on the horizon and rising from the desert in the foreground were the otherworldly outlines of Khufu, Khafre and Menkaure, the three great pyramids of Giza. The memory of my last visit did not diminish their magnificence – figures swirl in my head – an estimate of nearly 6 million tons of rock moved by 30,000 workers taking up to 27 years to complete. We encircled the largest of the three and clambered inside – at times bent double, at times climbing steep rock-hewn steps to go deep into the central tomb to marvel at this miracle of engineering.

I’m in Egypt with my husband and sons – for me a happy return and for them a dream fulfilled since they studied Ancient Egypt at school.

On our first night we found a tiny street café full of locals and enjoyed sizzling kebabs and shwarma, fat round breads and flavour filled houmous, fresh salads and baba ganoush washed down with zingy minted lemon and sweet fresh mango.

Later, in the vast echoing museums of Cairo we encountered the colossal 11m high /83 tonne, statue of Ramses II, skilfully carved in 1200BC from one piece of red granite and brought in a seemingly superhuman effort from ancient Memphis. In days to come we would visit a dusty quarry in Cairo to see how these gargantuan masterpieces were chiselled out of the rockface and floated down the Nile.

In the faded halls of the old Egyptian Museum we stood in awe in front of the solid silver casket of Psusennes I who ruled from 1047 – 1001 BC (at that time silver was more expensive than gold). We strolled past solid stone sarcophagi and copies of the famous archaeologist Howard Carter’s telegrams to Lord Carnarvon to find the 10kg gold bejewelled death mask of Tutankhamun. We ended our day by tiptoeing through the dark, silent black and gold vaults of the new Egyptian Museum of Civilisation, final resting place of the Royal Mummies after their journeys from the Valley of the Kings.

A short flight took us south to Luxor, the ‘Green City’, where the fabled Valley of the Kings made a memorable day. The preservation and decoration is a sight to behold. Indigo blue ceilings dotted with golden stars, scarabs and serpents, Horus and Ra, ibis, jackal and Gods of the afterlife, winged falcons, crocodiles and everywhere hieroglyphics and cartouches all documenting the resurrection and afterlife of the incumbent. One could well understand that famous Howard Carter quote in response to Lord Carnarvon’s question “Can you see anything ?”. As he broke through into King Tut’s tomb – open for the first time in 3,300 years – he uttered the magical words – “Yes wonderful things”.

Next came a stroll among the huge lotus topped columns of Karnak Temple , redolent of a scene from Agatha Christie’s famous novel Death on The Nile before boarding a beautiful houseboat for the 5-night journey on the River Nile from Luxor to Aswan. What a journey! Passing tiny mud brick villages thick with sugar cane, palm trees and banana plantations, donkey carts, fishermen and small boys playing in the life-giving Nile we had the ever-present backdrop of low slung limestone hills. A timeless scene.

Each day we stepped off the boat in the relative cool of the early morning to explore a tomb or temple – the great Temple of Edfu with its 36m high intricately relief-carved pylon walls and narrow passageways, the noblemen’s painted tombs of El Kab and the intricate relief carvings of Kom Ombo Temple in a stunning position on the riverbank.

We dined on a small island mid-stream and swam in the cool waters of the Nile at sunset (mercifully all the crocs are the other side of the High Dam)! We sailed into Aswan with heavy hearts not wanting to leave the warm embrace of our Dahabeya.

On our final day, rising early with the call to prayer echoing around the city , we headed south to the Great Temple of Abu Simbel on the shores of Lake Nasser. Once again gigantic statues of Ramses II stared down at us – this huge temple and the adjacent masterpiece for his beloved wife Nefertari – a perfect illustration of the might and power of the pharaohs of Ancient Egypt. As if that was not enough, the whole temple was moved in the 1960s in a monumental feat of engineering to escape the rising waters of the lake.

My return to Egypt has been nothing short of pure magic. Friendly locals, superb guides, easy travelling, short direct flights, e-visas, great food and at every turn the wonders of this ancient civilization whose power to awe and inspire like its colourful tombs and temples will never diminish. As a family there was something for everyone and we always felt completely safe and looked after. Who knows – maybe I’ll come back here in an afterlife!

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For those wanting to go that extra mile – some of the “specials” we can arrange include :

• Meeting before immigration at Cairo airport by our Rep who escorts you through the airport formalities
• Hot air balloon at sunrise over Luxor, offering breathtaking views of the Nile and the temples at dawn
• Private charters of luxury ‘Dahabeya’ boats on the Nile for any numbers of nights between Luxor and Aswan – with the flexibility to choose your preferred sites, including special access to locations not
• available on regular cruises
• Private visits to the Valley of the Kings after it closes in the evening
• Exclusive access to the Tomb of King Horemheb in the Valley of the Kings, a site closed to the public and reserved especially for you.
• Exclusive meeting with Dr. Zahi Hawass at one of his current excavation sites, where you’ll gain firsthand insights into ongoing archaeological work.
• Private dinner at Luxor or Karnak Temple, a truly unforgettable setting among ancient wonders.
• Private after hours visit to the Grand Egyptian Museum, where you will enjoy the complete treasures of King Tutankhamun without the crowds. A private dinner can also be arranged on the Museum
• Terrace, overlooking the illuminated Pyramids
• Breakfast or lunch on a traditional Felucca in Luxor, privately catered by a deluxe restaurant for an authentic yet luxurious experience on the Nile

When to go: October to April for ideal conditions – September and May for hotter weather, but lower rates and fewer visitors

Contact: [email protected] for a chat about your own tour of Egypt. Itineraries tailored to your budget.