Costa Rica – Pura Vida!
Even the gushing river and rhythmic chirrup of the cicadas could not mask the haunting sound of the howler monkey’s echoing calls reverberating around the tree canopy.
We’ve been in Costa Rica barely 24 hours and yet my husband, self and two sons have packed in a whole bucket of incredible experiences. Our journey began with a thrilling two hours’ rafting on the grade III-V Pacuare River deep into tropical rainforest where we alternately drifted and paddled like fury, bouncing and swerving over tumbling rapids and swam off the raft under gushing waterfalls. Finally, rounding a bend in the river we reached Pacuare Lodge, 20 top-notch villas set on the banks of the river and surrounded by tropical forest, tangled vines, ficus and gigantic palms.
Barely two hours later and much fortified by a delicious lunch of ceviche, portobello mushrooms and fresh fruit smoothies we were onto the next adventure – zipping through the tree canopy along an intricate network of wires strung from tree platform to platform enjoying a wild ride. Our guides are incredible – making every activity safe but hugely fun – knowing just when to bounce or jiggle a rope and give my sons that extra adrenaline rush while at the same time being gentle with the parents! We hike to a nearby waterfall and abseil down 15m canyons – too much fun for a 19 and 21-year-old. It’s not for the faint hearted but what a sense of achievement when you finally reach terra firma!
Night falls like a theatre curtain in the rainforest and soon we were on a fascinating night walk seeing tarantulas, bats, tree frogs and even the very venomous Fer-de-lance snake. Two days later we left the lodge with heavy hearts despite a thrilling 3 ½ hour raft out. We dropped over a class IV rapid into a hydro-hole and had to be pulled out by our fellow rafters. It was a new experience for me and I realise it’s not for everyone but put it at the top of your list for those who like adventure. We emerged from a rough, steep sided moss and fernwalled canyon overhung with a twisted and tangled profusion of trees. It’s real ‘lost land’ territory out here. Lunch was served on the river bank – table cloth and all: spicy burritos, cocoa brownies and huge chunks of fresh watermelon washed down with iced tea. It’s 430am. The palest of dawn skies is etched with threatening clouds and sheet lightning illuminates the fringe of palms across the river while thunder crashes noisily and in the background the hauntingly ethereal calls of the howler monkey echo through the rainforest. We’re now in Tortuga Lodge on the Caribbean coast and day five of our trip is just dawning. It’s hard to believe how much we’ve experienced already.
At sunrise, the giant iguanas came down from their roosts in the trees and the echoing eerie sound of the howler monkeys reverberated around the treetops – my favourite rainforest sound.
We happened across a family of 13 coatimundis – tails up – feeding on the path outside our room and an agouti came to join the melee as we headed out for dawn birding. The boys surfed in a glorious palm tree and coconut strewn bay – declaring it ‘the best’ and my naturalist husband could not put down his binoculars. We tracked rivers and wild waterfalls deep in the Lapa Rios Private Reserve and left a bit of our hearts here as we returned to San Jose and our last night at a finca on a verdant coffee farm in the hills above the city.
It would take too many superlatives to describe Costa Rica. It’s an assault on the senses (in a good way). You just have to go and see it for yourself.
In summary:
• Incredible profusion of wildlife
• Great adventure for families – canopy zip
lining, rafting, waterfalls, canyoning
• Easy travel between locations
• Friendly locals
• Great food and lovely boutique hotels
• Beautiful coastline
Contact Fiona to plan your own special trip.
