Haciendan Heaven – Fiona heads to Andalucia
“I feel as if I have fallen out of the sky and landed in the Garden of Eden” quotes my travel companion as we arrive at the extraordinary Hacienda de San Rafael in Andalucia, Southern Spain some 30 years after I first visited.
We had just walked into our stunning private pool villa, after a late-night drive from Malaga airport and were both in need of some ‘timeless time’. Goodness me – did we get it…
We wound down with a bottle of chilled white amid the gentle chirruping of cidadas and I slept as if floating on clouds, waking to the sound of cooing doves. As the sun rose to a cloudless sky, the tinkling fountain lured us out to breakfast on the cool terrace: freshly squeezed Seville orange juice and local honey, breads, yoghurt and deliciously strong coffee.
Later we swam lazy lengths in our private pool and lunched in the shade of our sit-out on spicy chilled gazpacho, hot buttered king prawns and the freshest of mozzarella salads before walking among almond and olive groves – working up an appetite for evening drinks on the terrace overlooking fields of sunflowers and courtyard dinner by candlelight.
Owned and run the by Anglo-Spanish Reid–Mora Figueroa family, this special little corner of paradise has been liberally sprinkled with magic dust by the gorgeous Anthony who is one of those people you just have to meet to understand why he is a bit of legend and why guests return to this oasis time and again.
Spend your days chilling by one of the several pools dotted around the olive and palm strewn gardens or snooze the afternoon away under a frangipani and jasmine sit-out. Visit an Andalucian horse breeder, an Iberian pig farm or hike the Sierra de Grazalema. Take a day trip to Ronda for gastronomy, wines and breathtaking town, hot air balloon in the Arcos de la Frontera, birdwatch in the Coto Donana National Park, track Iberian lynx or take a private bike-tour of nearby Seville. Of course sherry bodegas and private family bull ranches are de rigeur if you’re in this part of Spain as are flamenco in Seville, Jerez old town tapas for foodies and riding in La Corbera. Twice a week you can visit the Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre to see the stunning equestrian displays by the Spanish riding school and a visit to the world-famous Alhambra Palace and gardens is not a world away.
Be it for a special weekend, anniversary, milestone birthday or even an immersive week into authentic Andalucian life, I really do urge you to visit this quite extraordinary and exquisite corner of Spain.
En route from the Hacienda to Seville, high in the Sierra Nevadas as the road wound out of Grazalema, we stopped to hike among wild broom, flowering herbs and riots of wild begonias. Far below, vultures wheeled in the thermals of the perfect blue day. Wooded valleys and patchwork fields spread out before us as we spread out our fayre to picnic on delicious goat’s cheese with olives and herbs, crackers and dried figs stuffed with almonds. Butterflies fluttered among pink orchids and giant yellow daisies, and all that could be heard in the distance – the low whine of a faraway engine toiling up the corkscrew mountain road.
Our trip ended in Seville, all charming narrow cobbled streets, gracious buildings and parks dripping with giant palms and huge blooming jacaranda trees. Coral Del Rey, the sister hotel of the Hacienda was our wonderful base. Too many great memories here – the stunning Alcazar and Cathedral, tapas on the street, tiny coffee houses serving thick black brews, the majesty of the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza or Bull Ring with its informative museum stuffed with the bejewelled and heavily sequinned clothes worn by the matadors of a bygone era.
I’d love to tell you more so …. do get in touch for more details.
When: Visit Spring and Autumn for glorious weather, not too hot, not too cold.
Plan: A long weekend in Seville, a week at the Hacienda or combine the two – we will carefully curate your trip
How: Direct flights to Seville from London Gatwick. Self-drive for those who like to be independent or we can organise private transfers if you prefer.
Wow factor: Superb and special private guides to take you to bird watch, or visit a bull farm, horse breeder or sherry bodega not on the open market.
Price from: £1860 per person for a week’s stay including flights.